Bangkok
Few cities can rival Bangkok for pure stimulation. For sure, "noisy," "colorful," and yes, even "smelly" are words commonly used to describe this sprawling and ancient city. But even those who never fully warm up to the sensory barrage of Bangkok also admit that it's about the most exciting place they've ever been. They'll also allow as how the Thai people are friendly beyond belief, and that Western-style comforts like air conditioning and five-star hotels are much more readily accessible here than in many Southeast-Asian capitals.

Most people come to Bangkok prepared for at least some of what they will experience--chances are they've heard something about the magnificent temples, exotic cuisine, and even some of the less attractive aspects of the city, like the thick, polluted air. But Bangkok is one of those cities you can't really anticipate. You just have to go there.

Those who do fall in love with Bangkok--and this includes an overwhelming number of visitors--come back raving about how unbelievably exotic the city is, and yet how accessible these exotic experiences are. Turn down an alley and suddenly you're in the city's lively Chinatown. Pass through the gates of the National Museum, and suddenly you're traveling through centuries of Thai history and culture. Smile at a stranger and find yourself the lucky recipient of directions to a hidden treasure many foreigners have never seen. You never know what's going to happen next in Bangkok--which is what keeps many travelers coming back again and again.

Chiang Mai
Northern Thailand's Chiang Mai is, if possible, an even more surprising city than Bangkok. Just when you think you've got a handle on the Thai experience, Chiang Mai contradicts all of it. Compact and small (about 200,000 people) where Bangkok is sprawling, cool when Bangkok is sweltering, mountainous in contrast to Bangkok's semi-coastal plain, Chiang Mai (the name means "New City") is almost the anti-Bangkok.

Not that it lacks for things to do. For a supposedly "new" city, it's actually quite old, even by Asian standards, having celebrated its 700th birthday in 1996. This is one of the better places in Thailand to see the many layers of the country's history. The ancient moat once constructed to protect the fledgling city is still visible. As in Bangkok, temples dot the city. And if you look closely, you can still see the influence of the cultures that have dominated the area over the centuries. This northern part of Thailand was originally settled by peoples from what is now southern China. While the Chinese influence is relatively subtle, the influence of nearby Myanmar is much more obvious, You'll notice it in everything from the local cuisine to the remarkably colorful Burmese-style Buddhist temples found all over town.

Chiang Mai's temples, or wats--all 700 of them--are a major draw. Only Bangkok has a greater concentration of them. You'll find ruined temples, functional modern temples, big wats, small wats, and everything in between. Some date back as far as the 14th century, making Chiang Mai a must-see for students of Asian history.

Of course, if your tastes lean toward the more modern, there's plenty to do in Chiang Mai for you as well. The city's nightly outdoor market is a destination unto itself, with almost anything imaginable available for sale somewhere in the labyrinth of stalls. The city also is a major destination for visitors seeking English-language classes in everything from cooking to meditation and massage.•